This is a beret I knit last year. I absolutely love it and I'm sharing the pattern here. I wanted to knit a hat incorporating this beautiful lace medallion and without using dpn's - and this is the result.
I knit this to fit me - about 21" measured around the forehead. It's easy enough to adapt the size a little tighter or looser when you get to the decreasing section.
Lacy Beret – (knit flat on circular needles)
© Aida Costa, 2006
Medallion pattern adapted from Mary Walker Phillips’ Knitting Counterpanes - Knitting Coverlet Patterns for Contemporary Knitters, 1990, Taunton Press (a Threads book), ‘Medallion’, pg. 40.
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS FIRST:
This beret is knit flat (not in-the-round) on circular needles and seamed together. There are two edge stitches included in the cast-on. Work them as follows: On every row, slip the first stitch purl-wise and knit the last stitch.
Yarn and Needles:
2 balls - Elsebeth Lavold Classic AL
3.5 mm circular needles
Abbreviations:
Yo - yarn over
K - knit
P - purl
k2tog - knit 2 together
ssp - slip 2 stitches knit-wise (one at a time), return to left needle, purl the two stitches through the back loops (produces a left-leaning purl decrease)
Medallion:
Cast on 10 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: (yo, k1) x8
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: (yo, k1) x16
Row 6: (p2, ssp) x8
Row 7: (yo, k1, yo, k2tog) x8
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog) x8
Row 10: (p4, ssp) x8
Row 11: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog) x8
Row 12: (p5, ssp) x8
Row 13: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog) x8
Row 14: (p6, ssp) x8
Row 15: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog) x8
Row 16: (p7, ssp) x8
Keep increasing to Row 50. Medallion’s width should be at least 11 inches. If it's 12 or 13 inches, that's even better. If it's smaller than 11", keep increasing the medallion.
Begin decreasing:
Row 51: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x2), k13, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 52: (p21, ssp) x8
Row 53: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x2), k10, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 54: (p18, ssp) x8
Row 55: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x2), k7, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 56: (p15, ssp) x8
Row 57: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x2), k4, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 58: (p12, ssp) x8
Row 59: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x2), k1, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 60: (p9, ssp) x8
Row 61: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x4)] x8
Row 62: (p7, ssp) x8
Row 63: [yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, (k2tog x3)] x8
Row 64: (p6, ssp) x8
Rows 65 – 72: Knit
* If you want a tighter or looser fit, bind off a little before or after Row 72. If you want to take it off the needles to try it for size, be sure to put in a lifeline on live stitches using a thick yarn.
Bind off using a size 9mm needle. Sew seam (just use a basic whip stitch with a crochet hook). Weave in ends. Block using a large dinner plate as a form.
53 comments:
I do love your spiral lacy beret, I too have recently designed a hat with the same spirals on top, but have changed to another stitch past the crown to make a beanie shape. I have started mine from a stalk though, but it was a similar principle, YO's make such good ways of increasing stitches on a lacy project. I have also made spiral lace patterns from the brim up, then you still have to do a K2tog but it does move the line of holes sideways and makes the same pattern. Do keep in touch. Keep the blog going and add more pics of your designs.
Thank you so much for your kind comments! It's such nice encouragement - I'm still getting the hang of both blogging and designing but I'm having lots of fun. I love your idea of a spiral from the brim up, I'll have to try that :-)
i had a question about the ssp...im confused...why do you slip the 2 stitches on right needle and the back to left? and then ptbl? sorry just asking...newbie here...great beret by the way...im going to make one even though its july..lol..thx for pattern
Hi Angel, thanks for your comments!
The SSP produces a left-leaning purl decrease when looking at the right side or front of your knitting.
The original medallion pattern was knit in the round on double-pointed needles. Since I knit mine flat but wanted my lace to look identical to the original, SSP is the decrease that gave me the look I wanted. It slants to the right on the purl side, and to the left on the knit side, which is how it's viewed on the completed hat.
Hope this helps! If you're interested in a really technical explanation, google 'left leaning purl decrease' and you'll find several websites with excellent explanations, far better than what I can explain :-)
Imagine my surprise and delight when I came over to see your pattern and found out that you are in Mississauga. I am also in Mississauga (or will be moving to, soon).
I would like to join a knitting group in the area. Do you know any group in Mississauga?
Hi Margaret! Yes, we do have a small local Guild, and Toronto has several groups as well. Please email me at knittingdivine@hotmail.com and I'll pass along the Guild's contact details and give you some more info. I'm looking forward to meeting you! :-)
Thank you very much for sharing the pattern.
I found myself here through the Mystery Stole 3 group.
Greetings from Finland!
Hi Rouva! Thanks so much for stopping by! This is the first pattern I've ever designed, and I love it so much I had to share it :-)
Hi - I absolutely love this pattern, it is exactly what i am looking for! But i am having trouble around Row 9 - I don't seem to have the correct number of stitches to complete the pattern 8 times..... Can you tell me how many stitches there should be at the end of row 6, 7 and 8 so i can try and work out where i am going wrong?
Thank you so much, i have tried everything i can possibly think of :(
Lauren - New Zealand
ACKKK!!! Lauren, thank you so much for your comment - there were a couple of typos in those first rows! I'm so sorry that I didn't catch them! They are now fixed and I test knit them to be sure. Should you still have a problem, please do contact me by posting here, or email me at knittingdivine@hotmail.com and I will gladly help you out. (That goes for anyone else having trouble with the pattern, too).
The stitch count and pattern are now correct *fingers crossed!*
Thank you so much for posting your comment and I'm glad you like the pattern! Please do let me know how it turns out :-)
lovely beret, thanks for sharing. I have been looking for a cute beret and here it is, have some lovely hand dyed yarns
It's such a pretty design. You have a real talent, we want to see more from you!
Giulia
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KnitFree
Is there anyway you could show a picture of it being worn? It looks so great!
I reall like this pattern. Would you class it as easy/intermediate or advanced? I am probably an advanced begineer (I wonder if I'll EVER be able to say 'advanced?) and would like to try it.
Thanks,
Hi,thanks for sharing this great pattern.I am new to knitting but still found your instructions easy to follow.Finished it in 2days.
Melbourne,Australia
when you say "continue to increase to row 50" is this what you mean...
row 17: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog) x8
row 18: (p8, ssp) x8
increasing the # of knit and pearl by 1 each time?
I have the exact same question as Caitlin. Is that the correct increase?
i think that is correct because i went ahead with it and it seems to be working!
Thanks so much to everyone that has left comments - I'm so glad others love this pattern as much as I do! I apologize for not being on here much lately, but 'real life' has been hectic. I'll be posting something new soon - thanks for sticking with me and the pattern :)
What a fabulous, but simple pattern! I love a good lace hat and can't wait to try this pattern using a circular needle! I can knit it on the bus 'cause there's no complicated pattern to keep checking!
I have been trying to figure out this pattern for some time now. I'm a new knitter, but I enjoy trying new techniques. I have so many questions, and I would greatly appreciate some help in finding the answers. Number three is most important. I want to know how to knit this pattern in the round.
ONE: ARE THESE THE RIGHT EDGE STITCHES?
It took me a while to figure out the correct way to make the edge stitches...I think I have it now, but I’m not sure. Can you tell me if these conclusions are correct?
1A) The goal is to have an even chain/cable down both sides of the knitting...I think. The edges look like normal knit "v's" but they are longer than normal. This is the same effect some knitters use with scarves so that the edges look neat and even. Is this the edge I want?
1B) To accomplish this edge, you slip the first stitch PEARLWISE with the yarn IN FRONT. On odd rows, this makes the first YO a pearl YO, while the rest of the YO's in the row are knit YO’s because the yarn is already in back. Correct?
TWO: HOW TO SEW THE SEAM IN LACE PATTERN?
2A) This is where I gave up after three tries. Despite using safety pins, I could not figure out how to sew the seam in a way that makes it blend in with the lace pattern. I have this special edge designed for seaming, but none of my books show how to sew a seam this way. I know the edge stitches are added to the pattern to make it easy to sew the seam, but I can not figure out how to do it. Can you help?
THREE: HOW TO KNIT THIS PATTERN IN THE ROUND?
3A) Since I was at a loss to sew the seam, I decided to give the pattern a try in the round. This means I have to use a different decrease than SSP, as this decrease will now be worked on the right side of the knitting…again, I think. I took a guess and used SSK to replace the SSP’s in the pattern. The spiral lace pattern doesn’t look right with this decrease. Instead of having little holes to each side of the spiral, there are only holes on one side, and the spiral itself has a bar of yarn each place I used SSK. How do I correctly convert this pattern for knitting in the round?
THANKS SO MUCH!
so embarrassing... I'm on row 3 and confused already! I thought we casted on 10 stitches... How come row 3 is (yo, k1)x8 and not 10. Can someone help clarify please? Thanks!
there is a built in first and last stitch:
on every row, slip the first stitch purl-wise and knit the last stitch.
Bless you!!! I saw a sample of your inspiration design on the knityousucka blog: http://knityousucka.blogspot.com/2006/03/knitted-spiral-counterpane-blanket.html and knew that I wanted to try it. Unfortunately I had no pattern to on top of that, I really don't knit in the round... Your pattern saved me and got me started!! After looking closely at the pics on knityousucka, I figured out patterns for the filler squares and triangles. My yarn arrived yesterday and I'm working on my second spiral now. Thanks again!!!
Rick
nice pattern v. easy to follow.
i was just wondering if when you get to the 50th row and you're not at 11", you increase.. but how do you begin to decrease from there?
any answers are good because i want to give this as a gift and i would like it done as soon as possible.
I have not been able to find a guage listed anywhere in the pattern (or comments). Do you know what guage this yarn was knitting in? This will help to find appropriate yarn.
I'm knitting this pattern right now - I love it! thank you for posting it :)
Alyson
I am at row 51. I am a little confused as to how to decrease. My 50th row was (P41, ssp) x 8. How do I then go to the decrease row and keep the pattern. It does not look right. Maybe I made a horrible mistake. I am just not sure what to do.
thanks for the pattern! this is my first knitted hat since i didn't know how to use dpns when i started it, but i recently learned over the weekend...i updated my blog with pictures of the hat :-)
Just out of curiosity, is it possible to make this hat on dpns?
I love this hat so much. It's just a gorgeous pattern. You're very talented!!
I knitted two tams which came out beautifully but they were VERY small. I couldn't understand what I was doing wrong. I reread the pattern and finally recognized that my medallion was nowhere near 11" before I started to decrease. There was no guage on the pattern, but I used both a DK weight yarn on one tam and and a worsted weight yard on the other, both on the recommend 3.5 mm needles.
I don't think I'll have a problem increasing, but I, too, would like to know how to begin decreasing once you've gone beyond row 50.
Also, I think it would be helpful if you could repeat the note that there are two edge stitches right after you state, "Cast on 10 sts." It might help prevent problems with the stitch count.
Thanks for sharing this very pretty pattern.
So new to knitting ,,,,, How can I change this pattern to knit circular?
Wow...I love your beret! Its beautiful. Thanks very much for posting it. Just a couple of questions on the pattern. The pattern rows get more sts, then fewer, then more again, repeating over and over again from row 9 on? The apparent shrinkage of stitches on some rows kind of confussed me as I am rather new to knitting. The other question I had was to continue past row 16 you just keep increasing as in rows 11 through 16 correct? Thanks again for the pattern.
Good afternoon, I Love this hat and I'm to make it, I just had one question. After row 16 do I start from row number 1 again?
I am very confused! I've just waited 2 months to get all the materials needed for the pattern but upon starting the pattern, I cannot get past row 3!
I do not understand what I am doing wrong, but there is no way that with 10 stitches on the needles after row 2, that I can then (yo, k1) 8 times, 4 times yes, but 8, it just does not seem to be possible.
Would someone kindly point me in the right direction, as I love this pattern and really want to make it, but I'm finding it quite difficult at the moment.
Many thanks*
responding to the last comment...
remember that "On every row, slip the first stitch purl-wise and knit the last stitch." Should solve your problem.
demani96- you do not start again at row 1 after row 16.
There is a pattern to the way the rows are increasing. I actually have the increases written out for my own sanity so I will share them here:
Row 17: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog) x8
Row 18: (p8, ssp) x8
Row 19: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k5, k2tog) x8
Row 20: (p9, ssp) x8
Row 21: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k6, k2tog) x8
Row 22: (p10, ssp) x8
Row 23: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k7, k2tog) x8
Row 24: (p11, ssp) x8
Row 25: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k8, k2tog) x8
Row 26: (p12, ssp) x8
Row 27: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k9, k2tog) x8
Row: 28: (p13, ssp) x8
Row 29: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k10, k2tog) x8
Row 30: (p14, ssp) x8
Row 31: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k11, k2tog) x8
Row 32: (p15, ssp) x8
Row 33: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k12, k2tog) x8
Row 34: (p16, ssp) x8
Row 35: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k13, k2tog) x8
Row 36: (p17, ssp) x8
Row 37: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k14, k2tog) x8
Row 38: (p18, ssp) x8
Row 39: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k15, k2tog) x8
Row 40: (p19, ssp) x8
Row 41: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k16, k2tog) x8
Row 42: (p20, ssp) x8
Row 43: (yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k17, k2tog) x8
Row 44: (p21, ssp) x8
Caitlin -
Thanks for posting the rest of the rows... Just one question. Do you start the decrease as written in the original pattern? Only its line 45 instead of line 51?
How do you start a row with a yo? Is there an error in the pattern?
What a nice Beret-too bad I can't understand your instructions. I don't know how to do the SSP as it doesn't work out at all. Nor can I understand a yo on the first stitch of the row. I knit Arans a lot so am use to rather complex patterns but this one made no sense to me and I am so disappointed that I can't give it as a gift this year.
google the knitting terms you don't understand. SSP is easily found and not uncommon.
Also, read the instruction ALL THE WAY THROUGH. EACH row has a slipped stich at the beginning of it and a knit stitch at the end which makes the yarn overs at the beginnig of a row possible.
EMILY, I think i stopped one hat at row 45, but I would recommend going to the row # originally in the pattern.
I love your beret; but I too am confused as to what the stitches should be starting at Row 17 thru Row 49?
This was such a wonderful pattern. I wanted a beret that was different and this was definitely it. Thank you for making it public. :)
This was a challenge because I had trouble with counting. The deceptively simple pattern made me think, "I don't need to use markers!" It started looking like a spider's web on meth... So on the 3rd attempt, halfway through the tam, I added markers (after k2tog) and then the pattern held true. It didn't matter if sometimes the count was off a stitch as long as I kept the patterns separated, the spiral still held it's form.
This is my first project using circular needles to do flat work, which sounded difficult but was practical and easy to do.
I had to look up SSP and that was very helpful seeing more than one site. I realized what Aida was asking us to do with this stitch is to twist it for better definition. Without a gage I took a chance with my homespun, but because Aida gave us a diameter, I figured I could add or subtract rows as needed. Because the photo and work of the sample was so inspiring, I had to complete this instead of giving up.
So a challenge every now and then keeps my mind fresh (and my head warm!) Thanks.
I love this beret but am a crocheter. Does anyone have a similar pattern in crochet and is willing to share it?
I love the pattern but am a crocheter . Does anyone have a similar pattern that can be crocheted rather knitted?
Hi. I made this in two days and the skill level suited me - intermediate?. Read ALL of the pattern info AND comments (remember the start and end stitch are different), and then go slowly and carefully. It turned out beautifully.
Lisa
Help please someone. I am on row 9 and thought I was finally getting the hang of everything but after doing the last (...) x 8, I ended up with two extra stitches before the last end knit stitch. Does anyone know how many stitches there should be on row 9? I thought 50 but have 52.???Thank you.
Okay, please ignore my plea for Help above....I figured out what I was doing wrong and I figured out the number of stitches for each row so now it is easier to check. Sandy
Hi-I made a similar beret from a pattern Meg Swanson had in Knitters; a counterpane knit in the round, a coupla rows of garter stitch (helps make a fold for the finishing ribbing). I found this pattern as a result from trying to find the other, Meg Swanson one. Wish wish wish it was with dpns or I could find the Knitters issues. This is very close, tho!
Thanks,love this pattern I just finished knitting this, but I adjusted the pattern slightly so that it could be done on dpns. Its a great pattern!
Hey, I just loved this pattern and think I have finally figured it out. One question, when you say: "The medallion should measure at least 11 inches" what exactly does this mean? The diameter of the top? The width across the stitches on the needles? The width from the crown to the base of the medallion?
Thank you!
Thanks for visiting! The measurement is the diameter, with the beret lying flat (see the first photo). I recommend making it closer to 13 inches, it will drape better.
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